Fukuoka City

Fukuoka City, the capital city of Fukuoka Prefecture and 7th largest city in Japan, is perhaps most famous among Japanese for its Yatai – small, mobile food stalls that can be seen dotting the the Tenjin/Nakasu landscape, often serving ramen or some other local delicacy. Other things of note include the Hakata Ningyo, Fukuoka bijin, and the local baseball team – The Softbank Hawks.

A city rich in both culture and history, Fukuoka is notable for having produced a larger number of successful musicians than any other city in Japan. So, music fans rejoice! In addition, Fukuoka holds host to a number of tasty eateries, fashionable boutiques, bars, clubs, music and bookstores. With various other activities and attractions, those who are lucky enough to be placed here will be the envy of JETs throughout Kyushu.

Built on a long history of trade with the rest of Japan, Fukuoka City has developed around its reputation for diplomatic and merchant activity. During the Edo period Fukuoka was actually two distinct and separate cities: the samurai town situated west of the Naka river, home to the castle of Fukuoka’s first feudal lord (Now Maizuru Koen); and the nearby merchant town of Hakata, which was located east of the river. United in 1889, the city is now divided into seven wards: Higashi, Hakata, Minami, Chuo, Jonan, Sawara, and Nishi. All but Jonan and Minami are adjacent to some part of Hakata Bay.

Most Fukuoka JETs, both city-dwelling and otherwise, will find themselves in Fukuoka City at one point, and the most heavily trafficked areas (Tenjin, Nakasu, Daimyo and Hakata, respectively) are host to an assortment of interesting attractions, providing virtually all of the entertainment that a JET could need.

Locations in this section…

Marinoa, Momochi and Nishijin

Ohori Koen, Zoological & Botanical Gardens

Fukuoka Bay Area (Nokonoshima, Shikanoshima, Uminonakamichi)

Kashii, Higashi HIrao Koen and Hakozaki

Hakata and Nakasu

Tenjin

getting around

Fukuoka City Subway consists of three lines, accessible via the Tenjin Chikagai under Solaria Stage: The Hakozaki and Kuko (airport) Lines run along Meiji-dori. The new Nanakuma Line is located south of Mitsukoshi department store and runs along Watanabe-dori before heading east. The Nanakuma Line does not share a terminal with the Kuko and Hakozaki Lines. It is about a 15 minute walk between terminals. The subway is easy to ride and hard to get lost on with strategically placed maps in romaji at each entrance, exit and door. Trains stop at every station and all stops are announced in English. When you transfer to and from the Nanakuma Line, pass through the green signaled gates, take your ticket and walk to the other terminal. Tel 092-845-7800.

Nishitetsu Bus runs throughout Fukuoka-ken. Schedules and maps at bus stops are in Japanese and can be confusing, but the sign on the bus is usually printed in English. If you ask, some drivers are kind enough to notify you of your stop. There are main bus stops at designated areas on Meijidori, Watanabe-dori and Kokutai-doro. Information can be found at the Highway Bus Center on the 3F of Nishitetsu-Tenjin Station. Here you can get stop information and a Tenjin bus map. Tel 092- 733-3333.

Tenjin Bus Center and Hakata Bus Center provide long-distance highway bus services. Buy your ticket at the counter before boarding and get in line for your destination at its designated boarding point. Information can be found on the 3F of both centers.

JR Kyushu Trains all stop at Hakata Station, the major transportation center for JR and shinkansen trains. Train schedules are in English at larger stations and unless there is inclement weather, you can set your watch by the train. Tel 092-471- 8111.

Nishitetsu Tenjin-Omuta Line runs southbound departing from Tenjin Station in Fukuoka and terminating in Omuta at Omuta Station. There are regular, express and limited express trains; all cost the same and tend to be cheaper than JR. See Survival for more details on transportation and deals on fares.

Nishitetsu Kaizuka Line runs north from Kaizuka Station (end stop for the Hakozaki Subway Line) to Nishitetsu Shingu Station.

Internationalization

As the city can be overwhelming and confusing to newcomers, international organizations such as Rainbow Plaza and Kokusai Hiroba are recommended for getting your initial grounding. They have English-speaking staff and offer a wealth of information on Fukuoka, Kyushuand the rest of Japan.

Rainbow Plaza is especially good for gathering local, national and international tourist information and maps, as well as listings on available cultural and language courses. It also offers free book rentals which can save you quite a few yen, considering the markup on English books in Japan. For some lighter reading pick up The Rainbow, a free publication that details upcoming events and attractions occurring in the city. Finally, check out the message board when you find your first paycheck quickly disappearing and you still need furniture, a futon, region free DVD player, microwave, or whatever. It’s also a good place to find language tutors or conversation partners. 10am-8pm; closed 3rd Tue each month(except July&Aug). IMS Building 8F, 1-7-11Tenjin. Tel 092-733-2220. www. rainbowfia.or.jp

Kokusai Hiroba is best known for the free origami and calligraphy lessons they offer to foreigners. Kokusai Hiroba also has a quite a large selection of books available for rent as well as free DVD viewing booths and Internet access. 10am-7pm; closed Mon (or Tue if Mon is a holiday) and Dec 29-Jan 3. 1-1-1 ACROS Bldg 3F, Tenjin, Chuo-ku Tel 092- 725-9200. www2.kokusaihiroba.or.jp

Marinoa, Momochi, Nishijin

at a glance

Encompasses the area from Meinohama ??, the last stop on the city subway, to Tojinmachi ? ??

Take in a baseball game, cruise at the beach, shop for new threads, and chow down on good food

A pleasant escape from the hustle and bustle without straying too far from the city

getting there

Well served by the Subway Hakozaki Line and Nishitetsu buses from Tenjin.

points of interest

Marinoa City, known for its Pier Walk, is an outlet mall offering name brands at a discount with more than 130 shops to browse. Adjacent to the mall is Evergreen Marinoa, a seaside leisure complex complete with a luxury hotel and home to Sky Dream Fukuoka, the largest Ferris wheel in Asia. 2-12-30 Odo, Nishi-ku. Tel 092-892-8700.

getting there…

Take the subway to Meinohama Station, or Nishitetsu bus to Nagara Danchi.

Momochi Seaside Park helps you make the most of the summer heat with a day at the beach. Within walking distance of Fukuoka Tower and the Yahoo! Dome. Tel 092-822-8112 (Fukuoka Port and Seaside Management Center).

getting there…

Take Nishitetsu bus to Fukuoka Tower Minami-guchi. Call if you get lost.

Fukuoka Tower stands 234 meters tall and is adorned with over 8000 one-way mirrors, easily one of the city’s main attractions. Enjoy a romantic evening at the restaurant with one of the best views of the city and Hakata Bay, or go to the observation deck hovering at 123 meters. If you’re just there for the view, you can actually see the city from a little higher for free from the Sea Hawk Hotel & Resort next door. Admission \800, but if you get the Fukuoka Welcome Card, available for free at the JR Hakata info desk or Rainbow Plaza, you’ll save 20%. Apr-Sep 9:30am-10pm, Oct-Mar 9:30am-9pm, special hours for New Year’s and Golden Week holidays; closed last Mon and Tue in June. Tel 092-823-0234. www.fukuokatower.co.jp

getting there…

Take the subway to Nishijin, or Nishitetsu bus to Fukuoka Tower Minami-guchi.

Fukuoka City Public Library houses over one million books, Asian films and priceless historical documents. Also equipped with a big-screen auditorium, theater and restaurant. Tue-Sat 10am- 7pm, Sun & holidays 10am-6pm; closed Mon & the last day of each month (the following day if it’s a holiday). 3-7-1 Momochihama, Sawara-ku. Tel 092-852-0600.

getting there…

Take the subway to Nishijin, or Nishitetsu bus to Hakubutsukan Minami-guchi.

Fukuoka City Museum has four exhibition rooms featuring arts and crafts, folk art, historical and archaeological exhibits as well as the Kuroda Memorial Room, which showcases various special exhibits outlining the history of Fukuoka. Adults \200. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:30pm, weekdays Jul- Aug 9:30am-7:30pm; closed Mon (Tues if Mon is a holiday). 3-1-1 Momochihama, Sawara-ku. Tel 092-845-5011.

getting there…

Take the subway to Nishijin, or Nishitetsu bus to Hakubutuskan Minami-guchi/ Kita-guchi.

Fukuoka City Disaster Prevention Center was designed to educate Fukuoka residents about possible disasters as well as prevention and protection techniques. Simulations of earthquakes, fires and typhoons are available to the curious. Free. Tues-Sun 9:30am-5pm; closed Mon (Tueif Mon is a holiday) & the last Tue in every month.

getting there…

Take the subway to Nishijin, or Nishitetsu bus to Hakubutsukan Kita-guchi. 1-3-3 Momochihama, Sawara-ku. Tel 092-847-5990.

Yahoo! Dome and Hawks Town is where the pride of Fukuoka, the SoftBank Hawks, call home. It is Japan’s first retractable roofed dome and multiuse arena. Besides baseball, the Dome also hosts various events and concerts throughout the year, and on days where nothing is happening you can take a backstage tour of the Hawks’ home stadium. The complex surrounding Yahoo! Dome consists of Hawks Town Mall, Zepp Fukuoka (a major live music venue) and the newly revamped JAL Resort Seahawk Hotel, where many traveling dignitaries and visiting team’s players stay while in Fukuoka. Fukuoka’s Hard Rock Cafe sits between Hawks Town Mall and Yahoo! Dome. The recently renovated and expanded Hawks Town has been remodeled and now hosts a variety of facilities such as a full spa, Futsal court, movie theaters, bowling, batting cages and a plethora of new stores.

Yahoo! Dome backstage tour \1000. Call for hours. Tel 092-847-1006.

Hard Rock Cafe Sun-Fri 11:30am-11pm, Sat 11:30-1am. 2-2-1 Jigyohama, Chuo-ku. Tel 092- 832-5050. www.hardrockjapan.com \\

Hawks Town Mall 11am-9pm, restaurants til 10pm. 2-2-1 Jigyohama, Chuo-ku. Tel 092-847- 1429. www.hawkstown.com

Zepp Fukuoka has event and ticket information on their website. 2-2-1 Jigyohama, Chuo-ku. Tel 092- 832-6639. www.zepp.co.jp

getting there…

Take the subway to Tojinmachi, or Nishitetsu bus to Fukuoka Dome-mae.

Ohori Koen & Zoological and Botanical Gardens

at a glance

Many peaceful parks and museums offer a break from the speed of the city

getting there

Well served by the subway and Nishitetsu buses from Tenjin.

points of interest

Ohori Koen.  This park was opened in 1929 around an artificial lake modeled after the Sai Lake in China and used to be part of the moat surrounding Fukuoka Castle. The castle ruins, now Maizuru Koen, are within walking distance of the park. Also, located on the periphery are the Fukuoka Art Museum, a Noh theater and a Japanese garden that oozes Zen serenity. Go for a relaxing jog, bike ride, or rent a mini pedal boat to cruise around the lake.

getting there…

Take the subway to Ohori Koen or Nishitetsu bus to Nishi Koen.

Maizuru Koen.  Formerly Maizuru Castle, built by Nagamasa Kuroda in 1601 and known as Fukuoka Castle Ruins, this park is now a favored hanami spot with the sakura trees providing just enough canopy for shade in the day and moonlight by night.

getting there…

Take the subway to Akasaka, or take Nishitetsu bus to Otemon.

Fukuoka Art Museum can be found adjacent to Ohori koen and houses a large collection of pieces including the work of Marc Chagall, Joan Miró, Salvador Dalí and Kyushu native Shigeru Aoki. The permanent exhibits of pre-modern and antique art collections are amazing. Adults \200. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:30pm, weekdays Jul-Aug 9:30am- 7:30pm; closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). 1-6 Ohori koen, Chuo-ku. Tel 092-714-6051.

getting there…

Take the subway to Ohori koen, or take Nishitetsu bus to Jonai Bijutsukan Higashiguchi.

Nishi Koen.  Probably one of the best (and most crowded) places to see the sakura bloom and scatter like pink confetti, this park makes for a great walk or picnic spot year round. Across Meijidori from Ohori Koen

getting there…

Take the subway to Ohori Koen, or take Nishitetsu bus to Nishi Koen.

Korokan Historical Museum highlights Fukuoka’s importance as a contact point in diplomatic and international exchange. Korokan was an official guest house established in the ninth century for that purpose. The museum has on exhibition the reproduced lodging, as well as scaled-down buildings, pottery and other artifacts. Free. 9am- 5pm. 1-1 Jonai, Chuo-ku. Tel 092-721-0282.

getting there…

Take the subway to Akasaka, or Nishitetsu bus to Heiwadai or Akasaka 3-chome.

Yusentei Garden was built by the sixth of the Kuroda feudal lords in 1754 and is everything you would expect of a Japanese garden, which changes with the seasons. Drop by to participate in a tea ceremony and other cultural activities or just take pleasure in the tranquil splendor of the garden. Great for picnics. Adults \200. Tue-Sun 9am-5pm; closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). 1-46 Yusentei, Jonan-ku. Tel 092-711-0415.

getting there…

Take Nishitetsu bus to Yusentei.

Fukuoka City Zoological and Botanical Gardens are joined together by a bridge and host over 160 species of animals and 2600 kinds of plants. The botanical garden also houses

Asia’s largest greenhouse in which over 900 types of rare plants are grown. Adults \400. Tue-Sun 9am-5pm; closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). 1-1 Minami koen, Chuo-ku. Tel 092-531-1968.

getting there…

Take Nishitetsu bus to Dobutsuen-mae.

Fukuoka Bay Area

at a glance

Only a short ferry ride from Hakata Bay lie three of Fukuoka’s most famous islands: Nokonoshima, Shikanoshima and Uminonakamichi (not technically an island)

Pack a day-bag and your passport and wander over to Hakata Port International Terminal, which offers daily speed-craft services to Pusan, South Korea in about three hours

Also includes Fukuoka Kokusai Center, Fukuoka International Congress Center, Marine Messe Fukuoka and Fukuoka Sun Palace

getting there

Well served by the municipal ferry from Meinohama and Hakata Futo.

points of interest

Nokonoshima.  A short ferry hop from Meinohama, this island has a spot in history for being noted in the oldest remaining Japanese anthology, Manyo-shu, which was compiled in the eighth century. The island is popular among JETs for the annual Isla de Salsa festival in early August and the One Love reggae festival in May. Bikes available for \200/hour or you can take in the beauty of the island on foot. Recommended is the Kiyou-bunko Noko Museum and Nokonoshima Island Park. You can also try pottery painting and make a souvenir of your trip. Nokonoshima, Nishiku. Museum: Tel 092-883-2887. Park: Tel 092-881- 2494.

getting there…

Take the municipal ferry from the Meinohama ferry terminal.

Shikanoshima. Also featured in the anthology Manyo-shu, Shikanoshima is an important cultural asset. It is home to many historical sites and cultural facilities such as the Manyo Song monument, Kinin (Gold Seal) Park, Moko-zuka (Mongolian Soldiers’ grave) and Shikanoshima Museum. Also offers a nice retreat for beach goers, and surfers will find one of the few good but unreliable lefthander reef breaks here.

getting there…

Catch the municipal ferry from Hakata Futo to Shikanoshima. By car, drive north of Fukuoka City towards Shingu on Route 495 and follow the signs to Uminonakamichi and Shikanoshima.

Uminonakamichi Seaside Park spans about 230 hectares and offers cycling, swimming, amusement rides, miniature golf, pony rides and a petting zoo. Bring your own bike or rent one at \410 for three hours. The park entrance fee is \400.

Marine World, perhaps the biggest draw of the area, features an array of aquariums and has 350 species of marine life, including dolphin and sea lion shows. Admission \2100, or \4000 for a yearly pass. Mar 1-Oct 31 9:30am-5:30pm, Nov 1-Feb 28 9:30am-5:00pm; closed 1st Mon&Tue in Feb, Dec 31 and Jan 1. Higashi-ku. Tel 092-603-1111. www. marine-world.co.jp or www.uminaka.go.jp

getting there…

Take the municipal ferry from Hakata Futo (Bayside Place) or the speed-craft from Momochi’s Marizon terminal. By bus, get off at Marine World Uminonakamichi. By car, drive north of Fukuoka City towards Shingu on Route 495 and follow the signs to Uminonakamichi.

Fukuoka Kokusai Center is the site of the Fukuoka International Women’s Judo Championships and the Kyushu Grand Sumo Tournament held in November. Tickets can be expensive and difficult to obtain if it’s a popular season, so try to buy in advance. 2-2 Chikko-honmachi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-272-1111.

getting there…

Take Nishitetsu bus to Kokusai Center or Sun Palace-mae.

Fukuoka Sun Palace hosts concerts, international conferences and lectures. There is also a quiet hotel and restaurant with a view. 2-1 Chikkohonmachi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-272-1123.

getting there…

Take the Nishitetsu bus to Kokusai Center or Sun Palace-mae.

Hakata Port International Terminal is at 14-1 Okihama-machi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-282-4871.

getting there…

Take Nishitetsu bus to Chuo- Futo.

Bayside Place Hakata Futo is the main terminal for Shikanoshima and Uminonakamichi, but goes to Iki, Tsushima (Nagasaki) as well. Also sports indoor snowboarding, restaurants and shopping. Shops: 11am-9pm. Restaurants: 11am-11pm. 13-6 Chikko-honmachi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-272-3939.

getting there…

Take the Nishitetsu Bus to Hakata Futo.

Kashii, Higashi Hirao-koen, Hakozaki

at a glance

Home to Fukuoka Avispa’s Hakata no Mori Stadium located in Higashi Hirao-koen

Features Hakozaki Shrine

festivals

Hojoya September 12th -18th

Tamaseseri January 3rd

getting there

Well served by the subway and Nishitetsu buses from Tenjin.

points of interest

Higashi Hirao koen.  Recreation and sports facilities built to international competition standards such as stadiums, track and field venues, and tennis courts are offered here, as well as Hakata no Mori Stadium, home to Fukuoka Avispa. 2-1-2 Higashi Hirao koen, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-611-1515.

getting there…

Take Nishitetsu bus to Higashi Hirao koen-iriguchi.

Hakozaki Shrine. Built in 923, this is one of the three great hachiman shrines in Japan. It’s pavilions and sakura gate are designated as Nationally Important Cultural Properties. The shrine holds major festivals such as Hojoya, featuring a traditional crafts market, and Tamaseseri. 1-22-1 Hakozaki, Higashi-ku. Tel 092-641-7431.

getting there…

Take the subway to Hakozaki- Miyamae or Nishitetsu bus to Hakozaki.

Hakata & Nakasu

at a glance

Follow your nose to the station’s resident bakery, Il Forno de Mignon, responsible for making people stand in ridiculously long lines for a few delectable croissants (worth every minute)

The center of Fukuoka’s transportation network, Hakata will be one of the first places where you will calibrate your bearings

Located ten minutes straight out of the Hakataguchi exit is Nakasu, the largest entertainment district in Western Japan

Stumble upon some of the best restaurants that Fukuoka, or even Kyushu, has to offer

festivals

Yamakasa

getting there

Well served by JR Hakata Station, subway and city bus.

points of interest

Hakata Riverain is a multi-purpose complex that includes Hotel Okura, Fukuoka Asian Art Museum, Hakata-za theater, and the shopping complex known as “eeny meeny miny mo.” Come here when you catch the Japanese brand obsession and decide you can’t live another day without a Louis Vuitton purse. The restaurants in “eeny” are equally as chic and hip as their surrounding boutiques and will give you a meal to remember. 3-1 Shimokawabata-machi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092- 271-5050. www.riverain.co.jp

getting there…

Take the subway to Nakasu- Kawabata, or Nishitetsu bus to Kawabata-machi.

Hakata-za is a must for traditional kabuki and noh perfomances. The stage features a hanamichi (flower path) connecting the main stage with the back of the seating. Shows are performed monthly with big acts often on the bill. 2-1 Shimokawabatamachi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-263-5858. www. hakataza.co.jp

getting there…

Take the subway to Nakasu- Kawabata, or Nishitetsu bus to Hakataza-mae.

Fukuoka Asian Art Museum introduces the history of modern and contemporary Asian art and serves as a place of exchange for the burgeoning local art community. Visit the website for exhibit and special event information. Adults \200. 10am- 8pm (7:30pm doors); closed Wed (Thu if Wed is a holiday). 3-1 Shimokawabata-machi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-263-1100. http://faam.city.fukuoka.jp

getting there…

Take the subway to Nakasu- Kawabata, or Nishitetsu bus to Kawabata-machi or Hakataza-mae.

Canal City Hakata is one of the largest and most popular shopping and entertainment centers in town, conveniently situated within equal walking distance between Tenjin and Hakata Stations. Across the river in Nakasu, the brightly colored complex is flanked by the Grand Hyatt and Washington Hotel. The bottom floor’s food court includes a Pietro, Pronto, Kohinoor, Wako Tonkatsu, a gyoza only restaurant and more. Going up a few floors will lead you to the Ramen Stadium, which has a collection of noodle shops from all over Japan. See which region’s ramen you like best as the broth, noodles and toppings change from region to region. Canal City also has an amusement center, movie theaters and many familiar western stores like J. Crew, Gap and Zara. www.canalcity.co.jp

getting there…

Catch the \100 bus right in front of the IMS Building or in front of JR Hakata Station (Hakata-guchi exit) to Canal City Hakata-mae.

Hakata Machiya Folk Museum is a replica of a Hakata town during the mid-Meiji Period (end of the 19th century). Visitors can experience the lifestyle and festivals of the time and observe or even participate in the making of traditional arts and crafts specific to the Hakata area, such as weaving, hariko (papier-mache tigers), ningyo (dolls), and koma (chess pieces). Adults \200. 10am-6pm. 6-10 Reisen-machi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-281-7761.

getting there…

Take the subway to Gion, or Nishitetsu bus to Canal City Hakata.

Jotenji Temple. Built in 1242 by a Sung named Sha Kokumei and high ranking monk Shoichi Kokushi, this temple is said to be the birthplace of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival. 1-29-9 Hakataeki-mae, Hakata-ku.

getting there…

Take the subway to Gion.

Tochoji Temple. Kobodaishi Kukai, a well-known Buddhist monk who did much of his spiritual training in China, built this temple in 806 during his stay in Hakata. It is the oldest temple of the Shingon sect he founded in Japan. The Rokkakudo, or hexagon hall, has been designated by the city as an important architectural treasure. The temple also hosts the “Mercy with 1000 hands,” a large wooden statue of Buddha which is a Nationally Designated Important Cultural Property. 2-4 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092- 291-4459.

getting there…

Take the subway to Gion.

Sumiyoshi Shrine.  Home of the guardian of sea travel and traffic safety, which means it is a good place to buy omamori for your car. 3-1-51 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-2591-2670.

getting there…

Take Nishitetsu bus to Sumiyoshi/ Ekimae 4-chome.

Kushida Shrine. Famous as the starting point in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival, businessmen are often seen here on their first-ofthe- year shrine visits as it is believed that Kushida is home to the god of thriving business, health and longevity. Hakata Historical Museum is also on the premises (admission \300) and details the Yamakasa Festival with a brief history of Hakata. 1-41 Kamikawabata-machi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092- 291-2951.

getting there…

Take the subway to Gion, or Nishitetsu bus to Canal City Hakata.

Shofukuji Temple. This historically important gateway was the first Zen temple in Japan built by the founder of the Japanese Zen sect, Eisei, in 1195. The temple houses many precious artifacts such as a statue of Daikan Zenji (a famous Zen sect priest), and is deemed a Nationally Important Cultural Property. 6-1 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku.

getting there…

Take the subway to Gion.

Rakusui Park.  This beautiful Japanese garden is believed to have been built by a wealthy Hakata merchant around the turn of the 20th century. The combination and carefully thought out placement of rocks, water and foliage create a peaceful and serene atmosphere that can be enhanced by taking part in an open air tea ceremony in autumn or spring. Adults \100. 9am- 5pm; closed Tue (Wed if Tues is a holiday). 2-10-7 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-262-6665.

getting there…

Take Nishitetsu bus to Sumiyoshi/ Ekimae 4-chome.

eating and drinking

restaurants

Ipputei  This acclaimed tonkotsu ramen shop just outside Hakata Station has a surprisingly mellow and not overpoweringly oily broth. The gyoza is heavenly and you can spice up your ramen with their unique bright green noodles made from chives. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm & 5:30- 11pm, Sat 11am-3pm. ?????? (Sumitomo Seimei Bldg) B1, 3-2-8 Hakataeki-mae, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-441-9087. \

Los Pinchos is heavy on the ambiance and healthy on their selection of traditional dishes and Spanish wine. A star in the Fukuoka Spanish dining scene, it has been hosting live Flamenco performances on Saturdays for over six years and welcomes beginners and professionals alike. A short walk from either Gofukumachi or Nakasu-Kawabata subway stations. Mon-Sat 5:30pm-LO 10:30pm.  (Progress Space II) 1F, 6-9 Tsunaba. Tel 092-262-7789. www2.odn.ne.jp/ lospinchos \\\

Kara Kara has locations all over the city and is a must for good Korean food. The Korean salad and karaage are always crowd pleasers, but be sure to leave room for the spicy motsu-nabe. 6pm- 4am. City House Hakata 4-24-1 Hakata Eki-mae, Hakata-ku. \\

SaiSai  This izakaya is especially proud of its ikitsukuri sashimi, and has three locations in Tenjin and Nakasu alone. The ALT favorite is in Nakasu, which features a foot onsen adjacent to your table. Reserve in advance, and be sure to specifically ask for the foot onsen table. Mon-Sat 5pm-5am, Sun and holidays til 1am.  (Spoon Bldg) B1, 5-1-7 Nakasu. Tel 092-262-3131. www.saisai.biz \\

Sala Thai is a hole-in-the-wall restaurant serving an authentic selection of popular northern Thai dishes. The sets are recommended and an English menu is available. 11:30am-2pm & 5pm- 9:30pm; closed Sun.  (BS) Bldg. 3-19-14 Hakataeki-mae. Tel 092-414-2139. \\\

Tebaya ??? This izakaya is a five-minute walk straight out of Hakata Station’s Chikushi exit that specializes in chicken wings. Good for large parties and nomih?dai. 2-4-6 Hakata-eki Higashi. Tel 092-432-8377.

With the Style Fukuoka has a name that says it all. The bar and the restaurant flank a pseudo swimming pool and serve contemporary continental cuisine with an Italian accent. Outside, individual patio type seating with big comfy furniture is the perfect place to lounge poolside. 9am-2am, bar from 6pm. 1-9-18 Hakata-eki Minami. Tel 092-433- 3901.

bars

California Cotton Fields offers more than 100 beers from all over the world with an American country-western atmosphere. Beers from \600 and a small but tasty food menu. 6pm-2:30am. B1F, 4- 2-15 Nakasu, Hakata-ku. Tel 092-271-5130.

Bar Cooper is just a few blocks away from Cotton Fields and one of the few places where you can get a pint of Guinness poured right. Unlike the other Bar Cooper across from the Grand Hyatt there is no seating charge, which gives you some options if you find yourself wandering around Nakasu wanting one more drink before going home.

Tenjin – ??

at a glance

Come and lighten your wallet in this shopper’s/ gourmet’s/drinker’s delight: don’t fear small doors or illegible menus—those places usually turn out to be the best

Includes Yakuin, Daimyo and Watanabe-dori, all within easy walking distance of the Solaria Stage giant TV screen

Something of a cultural black hole, this is the area to come for all your urban adventures; the streets of Daimyo contain some of the best shopping in Fukuoka, whilst Oyafuko-dori is the artery of the area’s nighttime entertainment

getting there

By train…

- Nishitetsu Fukuoka (Tenjin) Station at the end of the Nishitetsu Omuta-Tenjin Line By subway… Tenjin Station on the Kuko Line By bus… Buses from all over the ken terminate here

eating and drinking

For more information on dining in the city, consult local Japanese foodie magazines such as EPI, Kyushu Walker and Messa-jyu.

cafes

Art Space Baku provides a small getaway in the middle of the city to enjoy coffee shop/bar goodies. Baku has been supporting local artists for close to 30 years, so you can get a little culture with your martini. At the intersection of Oyafukodori and Showa-dori. 11am-8pm, cafe/bar til 10pm. (Koei Bldg.) 2F, 3-4-14Tenjin. Tel 092- 781-7597. www.artspacebaku.com \

Aux Bacchanals is a carefully replicated French terrace cafe that has an array of pies, cakes, quiche and a full bar. Cool people-watching spot. Between the two Daimaru buildings. 8:30am- 9pm, breakfast til 11am. Daimaru Bldg 1F, 1-4-1 Tenjin. Tel 092-762-7373. \

Bleu Fonce Cafe and Patisserie has wonderful desserts and offers a nice hiding place from the crowded walkways of Tenjin Chikagai. The cafe is next door to the patisserie and is very popular among the city girls. Tenjin Chikagai. Tel 092-732- 8200. \

Cafe Shiki This cute, contemporary cafe in Yakuin has a sister store in Imaizumi that goes by Cafe Xando. Both are great for lunch or a light snack, and the menu constantly changes with the seasons. If the weather is nice, patio seating is available at the Yakuin location. 2-14-29 Yakuin. Tel 092-738-5788. \

Mabre Blanc Cafe is tucked away through a tiny door in the middle of Daimyo. Best known for its wonderful crepe desserts. Sun-Thu 12pm- 12am, Fri&Sat and days before holidays til 2am. 2-1-31 Daimyo. Tel 092-714-2520. \

Patisserie 16(ku) is a sinfully good French confectionary in Yakuin. Each item is lovingly handcrafted just like in France. 9am-8pm; closed Mon. 4-20-10Yakuin. Tel 092-531-3011. www. kyushu-cake.com \

Tulip Soup serves up a healthy lifestyle in a bowl. Following the slow food movement, this simple cafe incorporates local and organic foods into its salads, pastas, entrees and homemade soup. Lunch sets from \850. Five-minute walk from Yakuin Station; turn right out of the central exit. 11.30-9pm; closed Mon. Tel 092-739-9088. \ vegy

Japanese

Asa-yama  A Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki restaurant located just off Nishi-dori in Daimyo. Mon-Sat 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. 1-13- 8 Daimyo. Tel 092-731-6554. \

Chibo  Serves great Osaka-style okonomiyaki. Solaria Plaza 6F, 2-2-43 Tenjin, Chuo-ku. Tel 092- 733-7601. \

Fujiya  One of the cheapest all-youcan- eat yakiniku joints in the city starting at \999, or about \2500 with nomihodai. Reservations are recommended. 2-6-20 Daimyo, Chuo-ku. Tel 092- 735-0501. \\

Gombei  This yakitori joint in Daimyo is famous for their torikawa, skewered grilled chicken skin slathered in a secret teriyaki sauce. Other kinds of yakitori also available from \100. 5pm-11pm; closed Sun. 2-1-43 Daimyo. Tel 092- 714-2296. \\

Hyotan no kaiten sushi  Probably the best kaiten-zushi in the city (main restaurant is across the street). Fresh fish and quick service keep the seats filled any time of day. The grilled anago is their specialty, but you have to order it as it does not come out on the conveyor belt. Take-out also available. 11am-9pm. Solaria Stage B2, 2-8-222 Tenjin. Tel 092-733-7081. \\

SuSu is a chic izakaya whose fountain at the entrance will immediately catch your eye. Offers nomihodai starting at \1500 and can accommodate large parties without reservations. 5pm-3am. 1-14- 26 Daimyo. Tel 092-735-4747. \\\

Tadasuke You’ll fall in love with Japanese food all over again. More than just a sushi bar, this experience in Japanese haute cuisine will allow you to fully appreciate the beauty of umami, the fifth taste. Mon-Sat 6pm-12am; closed Sun & and holidays. (Yayama Bldg.) 3F 5-1-22 Watanabe-dori. Tel/Fax 092-738-3522. \\\\

Takoyan  A small takoyaki joint that’s great for a snack while wandering the back streets of Daimyo. Mon-Thu 3pm-2am, Fri&Sat 3pm-3am, Sun 3pm-1am. 1-4-12 Daimyo. Tel 092-724-9633. \

Ume no Hana  This locally-owned chain of specialty tofu restaurants creates tasty dishes that look too good to eat. There are both Japanese and Chinese-style versions of Ume no Hana, and 12 in Fukuoka alone! Check the website for other locations around Kyushu. 11am-LO 2:30pm, 5pm-LO 9pm. Acros Bldg B2, 1-1-1Tenjin, Chuo-ku. Tel 092-725-9022. www.umenohana.co.jp \\\ Vegy

Zauo is a novelty restaurant chain that lets you fish for your own dinner, then choose how it’s to be prepared. There are ten locations around Fukuoka, most with a giant pond and boat to fish from inside the restaurant. There’s a discount on anything you catch, as well as the joy of being slow-clapped by the whole restaurant when you go without a bite for 20 minutes. Tenjin location in Nagahama next to Yu no onsen. Visit the website for maps to all locations. Mon-Fri 5pm-LO 11pm.Sat&Sun and holidays 11:30am-LO 11pm.1-4-15 Nagahama. Tel 092-716-9988. www.zauo.com \\\

Asian (non-Japanese)

Garyumon  This Chinese izakaya serves food that’s tasty, filling and cheap. A great go-to when nobody can decide what they want. One location across from Yodobashi Camera next to Hakata Station; the other in Daimyo. Daimyo location: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-12am. 1-12-36 Daimyo. Tel 092-713-7230. \\

Jammin Kah is a “super ethnic” restaurant great for Southeast Asian cuisine. The food is honest and there is a reasonably cheap nomihodai (\1260) available for groups. 12-4pm, 5pm-LO 12am. (Nanpu Bldg.) B1, 1-1-20 Daimyo. Tel 092-771-3108. \\ 13

Nanak is a popular Indian chain with all the usual favorites. Good specials if you happen to make it for lunch. Sets from \1500. On the corner of Oyafuko and Showa-dori. Mon-Fri 11am-3:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm, weekends and holidays 11:30am- 10:30pm. 1-1-4 Maizuru. Tel 092-713-7900. \\

Sagar lets you choose how much spice they put in your curry when you order. The owner and staff speak very good English and always welcome foreign visitors. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm, 6-10:30pm, weekends and holidays 11am-10:30pm. ELK Daimyo Bldg. 1F, 2-2-43 Daimyo. Tel 092-714- 7199. \\

Sala Rim Naam is probably the most authentic Thai restaurant in town and will gladly prepare vegetarian versions of their most popular dishes. Mon-Fri 5:30-10pm, Sat&Sun 5-10pm. (Tip the Akasaka) 2F, 3-9-25 Akasaka, Chuo-ku. Tel 092-715-1418. \\ vegy

Shinkai is a Chinese restaurant that has fabulous dim sum and other dishes starting at \100. Lunchtime can get busy so get there early. 11:30am-1:30pm, 6-11pm; closed 2nd Tue of every month. 2-3-34 Chuo-ku. Tel 092-731-5548. \\

Tamon is hands down the best Korean place in Fukuoka. Their chijimi and grilled pig’s feet are a must, along with the motsunabe. Reserve in advance. 5pm-LO 11:30pm. JOJO Bldg. 1F, 3-12- 26 Haruyoshi. Tel 092-751-7865. \\\

Tunapaha serves a wide selection of traditional Sri Lankan food featuring authentic spices ranging from a “just a tinge” to “the burning fires of hell.” 11:30am-11:30pm. KFC Bldg. 5F, 2-1-1Daimyo. Tel 092-712-9700. \\

European

Bistro A Vin/ Bal Musette has a street level café with indoor and patio seating that’s great for a cappuccino and a bite to eat, but downstairs is the good stuff. Like stepping into a French wine cave, the low arched ceiling and soft lighting lets you escape the noise and sets the mood for a great meal. Courses start at \3500, or you can go a la carte. Wed-Mon 12-2pm, 6pm-LO 11pm. 1-14-13 Daimyo. Tel 092-736-5055. \\\ 34

La Boheme Qualita is fabulously hip Italian eatery above the Apple store. Outfitted with a patio, cigar lounge, main bar and a chic main dining room, there’s a mood for everyone. 11am-LO 4:15am. (Tenjin Luce) 5-7F, 2- 3-24 Tenjin. Tel 092-737-2601. www.global-dining. com/ \\\

Perche No! is one of the top trattorias in Fukuoka. It has a great wine list, delicious food, a superb atmosphere and unrivaled service. Order ala carte or choose the course menu. Reservations recommended. Tue-Fri 6pm-LO 10pm, Sat 12-2pm & 6pm-LO 10pm.Sun & holidays 12-2pm, 6-9pm; closed Mon. Spazio-IV Bldg 1F, 2-17-10 Kego. Tel 092-725-3579. \\\

Tundora ???? Intended to uphold the body through cold winters, this cuisine is true comfort food. The borscht, a tomato-and-beetrootbased stew of meat and vegetables, is delicious. 11am-10pm, lunch til 3pm.???? (Saito Bldg) 1F, 2-7-11 Daimyo. Tel 092-751-7028. \\\

Velona is named after a sister restaurant in Italy and imports only the best ingredients for its pasta and pizza. Tomatoes from Naples, olive oil from Tuscany and salt from Sicily are just some examples. 11:30am-LO 9:30; closed Wed. (Fukuoka Toyota F?T Bldg.) B1, 4-8-28 Watanabe-dori. Tel 092-721-0057.

Vigneron has an intimidating wine list (over 2600 labels) and owner/senior sommelier Fukushimasan will gladly help you find the perfect wine to complement your meal. The cuisine, prepared by one of the best chefs in Fukuoka, is an eyeopening arrangement of seasonal ingredients sourced locally and from abroad. Ten-minute walk from Tenjin Station. Wed-Mon 6pm-LO 12am; closed Tue. (Corazon Bldg.) 2F, 1- 24-24 Takasago. Tel 092-531-3880. \\\\

Yebisu Kitchen serves simple, seasonal pasta and pizza. Easy to find, tasty and filling for a nice price. Mon-Fri 12-2:30pm, 5:30pm-LO 10pm; weekends & holidays 12-3pm, 5:30pm-LO 10pm.2-1-50 Daimyo, Chuo-ku. Tel 092-712-0563. \\

Spanish/ Mexican

El Borracho is the ALT favorite for authentic Mexican food and over 100 varieties of tequila. In Spanish, the name means “the drunk.” Mon-Fri 5:30pm-1am, Sat&Sun til 2am. Liberty Daimyo Bldg. 2F 2-3-2 Daimyo. Tel 092-720-5252. \\\

Risa Risa is a Spanish tapas restaurant offering an a la carte menu starting at five dishes for \1680. Nomih?dai available for an additional \1500. 11:30am-1am. G Bldg. 5F, 2-1-5 Daimyo. Tel 092-718-0117. \\

Sancho Panza is around the corner from Bic Camera and serves delicious Latin-fusion dishes. The chef hails from a five-star hotel restaurant in Argentina, but the food is reasonably priced from \500-600. They frequently host salsa dancing nights and provide live flamenco guitar performances during weekday dinner hours. 12- 11pm. Dayton Bldg 3F, 2-4-5 Tenjin. Tel 092-762-4110. \\

other/fusion

Choperia offers a decent selection of Brazilian food and beer. 6pm-2am; closed Mon. Venus Bldg, 1-8-40 Tenjin. Tel 092-714-3100. \\

Haleakala is a hip California-style sushi bar owned by a husband and wife who spent a few years as sushi chefs in the US. Their English menu, featuring the roll-style sushi you’d expect to find in the States, as well as a wide selection of drinks and delicious desserts, makes this place a favorite. Mon-Thu 12pm-12am, Fri-Sat 12pm-3am, Sun 11am-11pm. Cerebro Bldg. 3F, 1-2-9Daimyo. Tel 092-738-2004. \\

MacSween is a Scottish pub with a wide assortment of scotch whiskeys, beers, and a great shepherd’s pie. 12pm-3am; closed the 1st Mon of every month.  (Concealment Bldg.) 2F, Akasaka. Tel 092-735-2110. \

Propeller Drive is a two-level, mirror-lined bar and restaurant popular with the 20-somethings. Mon- Fri 6pm-LO 1am, Sat-Sun 6pm-LO 3am. 1-13-30Imaizumi. Tel 092-715-6322. \\

Sushi Den is originally an American sushi restaurant that made its way over to Fukuoka and became a mainstay. The posh ambience is a welcome escape when you are craving a California roll like the ones from back home. The dynamite and spider rolls are excellent. Just north of the yatai stands in Nagahama. 5:30pm-12am, Fri&Sat til 1am. 1-9-22 Minato. Tel 092-738-5570. \\\

bars

Fireball Cafe is the only sports bar in Tenjin that actually feels like a real sports bar. The walls are adorned with sports memorabilia and the pub grease they call food is reminiscent of home. Die hard fans can catch all major sporting events via satellite TV, although the time difference can pose a problem. Make reservations for popular sporting events well in advance. Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri&Sat 6pm-3am. (Commune Bldg.) B1, 2-6-28 Tenjin. Tel 092-732-8688.

Goo is the perfect place to pre-party or grab a nightcap before heading home. A full bar is accompanied by an interesting selection of beers from around the world and tapas-style munchies. Nice staff, friendly atmosphere and no seating charge. 6pm-3am. (Ono Bldg) 1F, 2-2-47 Daimyo. Tel 092-741-9560. tagban.com/goo/top. php \\

Hakata Harp is an Irish pub with happy hour from 5-7pm so you can drink your dinner at halfprice: draught Guinness, Kilkenny and Yebisu beer (Guinness normally \900). On Showa-dori, opposite Okura Hotel. \300 seating charge. 11:30am-4pm, 5pm-3am (weekends from 12pm). 1-1 Hotel Eclair Hakata. Tel 092-283-6446.

Nakamura Wine More of a wine store than bar, but Nakamura-san always has at least one bottle of Champagne and a few wines open to try, along with select cheeses and cured meats. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. Tel 092-741-7331.

Tattoo is known for its eclectic lighting, rooftop balcony and \300 happy hour. The staff speaks English and it has an English menu. The naan curry pizza and spring rolls are excellent. 11:30am- 5pm, 6pm-LO 3am. 1-18-36 Imaizumi. Tel 092- 716-6119.

Voodoo Lounge is a bar/restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere, and is often a venue for a variety of live music. Tuesday night is Ladies’ night: all drinks are half-price. Between Oyafukudori and Watanabe-dori, Tenjin Center Building 3F, 3-2-13 Tenjin. Tel 092-732-4662.

nightclubs

Fukuoka’s dance club scene centers around Oyafuko-dori in Tenjin. Check out flyers at record stores in Tenjin to get up-to-the-minute information on special events and drink specials hosted by the clubs. Usually \3000 will get you admission and a drink or two, but a few do nomih?dai as well.

Air resonates with the thumping bass of its impressive sound system and DJs. Even the most uncoordinated dancer can take respite in the nearly pitch black smoke and laser-induced dance floor. Fri from 9pm, Sat&Sun til 12am. B1, 3-6-23, Tenjin. Tel 092-732-0060.

Anmitsu Hime is a transvestite comedy and dance show. It’s entirely in Japanese, but so over-the-top that even if you don’t get the jokes, you’ll still be laughing. Your \5000 ticket includes a nomih?dai, so at least you have the option of drinking until it’s funny. There’s a lot of audience interaction, and foreigners usually get suckered into doing something. Shows at 8pm, 10pm and 11:45pm. Lion Bldg 2F, 3-7-13 Tenjin. Tel 092-725-2550.

Dark Room is owned by a former JET and often hosts events such as the Jan-Ken- Pon Charity Tournament or the New JET Welcome Party. There is a great outdoor patio on the roof in summer, and music varies by DJ but tends to be more alternative. No cover. From 8:30pm. Tenjin Bacchus House Bldg 8F. Tel 092-725-2989. www.thedarkroom.biz

Decadent Deluxe and Keith Flack are located in the same building down a rather dark and obscure alley off Oyafuku-dori. Good sized dance floor, good music and especially worth it on one of their highly rated house nights. \1500 gets you in with a drink. 9pm-5am. Magic Square Bldg 3-5F, 1-8-28 Maizuru. Tel 092-761-9111.

Due Due is one of Fukuoka’s oldest clubs. It plays hip-hop and R&B and gets a good weekend turnout. The fresh fruit cocktails are oishii! After 10pmthere is a \1500 cover which includes one drink. Mon- Thu 7pm-3am, Fri-Sun 8pm-5am. Obelisk Building 3F, Maizuru. Tel 092-721-6250.

Fubar is one of the more popular clubs amongst ALTs in Fukuoka. It’s now run by an ex-JET who does a good job of looking after the regulars. Weekends offer a good vibe and drink specials, not to mention the drinking competitions with the bartenders. On Oyafuku-dori in the Tenjin Okabu Bldg 4F. Next to Family Mart, above Buaiso. Tel 092-722-3006.

Happy Cock is filled with beautiful people and has great energy fueled by chart pop/dance/hiphop music, especially on wild holiday weekends. For \3000 (men) or \2000 (ladies) you get an allyou- can-drink pass on Friday and Saturday nights, otherwise its \1200 with two drinks for everyone. Drinks from \500. Mountain 5 Bldg 9F, 2-1-51 Daimyo. Tel 092-734-2686. www.happycock.jp

Lab-Z Remix is a cozy but sophisticated dance club with a nicely mixed clientele. The upstairs lounge is also a welcome retreat from the dance floor below. Cover \3000 with two drinks. Tenjin Okabu Bldg 6F, above Fubar. Tel 092-711-1004.

One Way is the place to indulge your salsa cravings. If you’re a fabulous Latin dancer, you’ll fit right in here. Otherwise, expect to sit on the sidelines watching jealously. Sun-Thu no cover, Fri&Sat \1000 with a drink. From 7:30pm. Tel 092- 722-2565. 5

Safari is an izakaya on weekdays and becomes a hip-hop and R&B club on Friday and Saturday from 1am. The club comes to life around 3ambut stays open well into the morning. \1000 with one drink. Drinks from \500. On Oyafuku- dori. 3-6-18 Tenjin. Tel 092-762-6767. www.club-safari.com

Sam & Dave extended its reach from Osaka and has firmly planted its roots in the Fukuoka clubbing scene. It often hosts fundraisers and mixers that usually have a good turnout. Music varies with the DJ but the standard is chart pop/ dance/hip-hop. Wed-Thu 7pm-4am (no cover), Fri&Sat from 9pm (men \2000 with two drinks, women \1000 with one drink), Sunday 7pm-2am (no cover). West Side Bldg 3F, 2-8-22 Tenjin. Tel 092-713-2223. www.samanddave.jp

Gay/Lesbian Fukuoka

Whether you’re a full-fledged family member or just looking to explore a different segment of the society, Fukuoka does have some bars catering to the queer community. Gay bars are concentrated on a street block in Sumiyoshi, an area located roughly between Canal City and Tenjin. Before venturing in, it’s a good idea to leave your preconceptions at home; in Sumiyoshi, you won’t find any huge dance clubs or DJs. Rather, you’ll find small, everyday Japanese-style bars, the only obvious difference being the lack of women. Expensive drinks, sexual innuendo snacks and loud karaoke is the standard fare here. Certain bars cater to certain types of people, with distinctions varying from hair length to age group. Being a foreigner, you might not feel at home anywhere, but enter with an open attitude and the locals will embrace you. Sumiyoshi is easily accessible on foot from Hakata Station. From the Hakata-guchi exit, walk straight towards the main street ahead of you. Turn left and walk to the end of the block, passing the large Hakata Post Office on your left. Cross the intersection and turn right onto Sumiyoshi- dori. Walk straight away from Hakata, with ANA Hotel across the street on your right. You’ll come to a Royal Host restaurant; walk straight, take the third left, and you’ve arrived at the heart of Fukuoka’s gay community.

Overall is a great place to start your night. One of the first bars on the right hand side of the street with friendly bartenders that are used to foreign faces. Beers \900 but include karaoke. Maps of the area’s bars are available.

Dai-Dai is half a block down and is a rather large, dimly lit venue. Things get packed for Saturday’s Gay Bingo around midnight. Prizes range from your very own keep of shochu, to “articles” which will make it difficult to play bingo with a straight face back in school.

Shichimencho, further down on the left, is a popular spot where the arrival of a gaijin might cause the customers to suddenly become preoccupied with their keitai, but the staff will treat you like one of the guys.

Bayo looks like an insurance office, but inside you’ll find welcoming staff and a bar that caters to guys on the chubby side. A very friendly spot, towards the end of the street on the left.

One final note: Most of the bars have their own sports team composed of regulars. If you become a frequent face you could be invited to their next game, be it soccer, rugby or badminton. You’ve been warned!

Fukuoka’s lesbian scene may bring about some surprising introductions as well. From girly-girls with high heels and short skirts to gender ambiguous dykes, Fukuoka has it all. Since alternative sexualities are typically closeted in Japan, there’s not much sense of gay pride and it is often difficult to find out what’s going on in the community. But check out the bars listed below and you’ll discover that Fukuoka actually does have a thriving, if somewhat small, lesbian scene.

@Home is for karaoke enthusiasts! You’ll be greeted by the @Home toy dog, no doubt wearing one of its many cute outfits. The staff speaks some English. On Thursdays men are allowed if accompanied by a lovely lady. Four times a year this bar hosts a night for queer ladies over the age of 30. The \1000 seating charge includes one drink, usually \600-700. From the Apple store on Nishi-dori turn right. Walk past Mos Burger and the Core 21 sign. @Home is on the 4F above 7- Eleven on the left. Tue-Sun 8pm-2am. Oka Bldg 4F, 1 2-18-13 Kego, Chuo-ku. Tel 092-733-6555. http://www.h7.dion.ne.jp/%7Eat_home/

Doez Dose is a gay-friendly bar that is open to anyone and everyone. One of the only places in the city visually displaying their gay pride, the chic interior is decorated with rainbow flags and other trinkets. The owner speaks English and the bar has popular English queer magazines, papers and books for your perusal. They also host an annual Queer Film Festival, women’s weekends and have a float in the Hakata Dontaku festival. Once a month they hold a discussion group for sexual minorities of any age, providing a safe and supportive environment for the LGTBQ community. \300 seating charge and drinks \750-1100. From the KFC on Nishi-dori continue straight towards the Apple store. Turn left at the 7-Eleven near the Diesel store. Doez Dose is in the basement of the building on the right-hand corner. 6pm-4am. Tel 092-752-3600. http://room38k.kir.jp/Doez-Dose/ top.html

There are also semi-regular club nights usually held on Sundays. These events are advertised at the bars listed above or you can check out the CRUSH girls’ website at http://ip.tosp.co.jp/ i.asp?i=crush06

shopping

bookstores

Foreigners can find most major English publications at the larger bookstores in Fukuoka City. Kinokuniya, Junkudo, Maruzen, and ABC (Aoyama Book Center) carry a range of English magazines, books, newspapers and Japanese language materials. Check out the bargain book sections where English books can occasionally be found dirt cheap. If you can’t find what you want, check out Amazon Japan (www.amazon.co.jp); orders over \1500 get free shipping.

department stores

Throughout Japan’s retail history these conglomerates have become a both status symbols and guarantees of quality, full of only the most glamorous boutiques and high quality products. Daimaru, Iwataya and Mitsukoshi are the most prestigious department stores in Fukuoka and are within walking distance of each other in Tenjin. Usually open 10am-8pm with special hours during the holidays. There are also a number of smaller retail/discount stores around the city like HomeWide, Gooday, Trial, Nafco, Jusco, Mr. Max and those owned by the Daiei Corporation such as U-need and Sun Live. Not as big or expensive as the stores mentioned above, but they cater to most needs and are friendlier to the ALT’s budget.

electronics

Wherever you shop, be sure to apply for a point card. You will get points that can be applied to future purchases. For example, a \40 000 camera purchase may get you a memory card for free. Larger stores usually have English-speaking staff available.

Best Denki is a three-minute walk from the Tenjin Subway Station, just around the corner from Starbucks and across the street from the Acros Bldg. www.bestdenki.ne.jp

Bic Camera has two locations in Tenjin, both within a two-minute walk from Mitsukoshi. www. biccamera.com

Kitamura Camera offers cheap and fast film development. www.kitamura.co.jp

Yodobashi Camera is near JR Hakata Station. Exit at Chikushi-guchi and turn right. It’s on your left. http://www.yodobashi.com

groceries

Bon Repas is a gourmet supermarket also known for its relatively wide selection of imported foodstuffs. Three locations in Fukuoka City: Momochi, Yakuin and Nishijin. For Nishijin, take the Nishijin Subway exit #1 and go left up Route 263. It’s on the right underneath Starbucks in the TenGood Bldg. For Momochi, take a right from Nishijin Subway exit #1, follow Route 263 and Bon Repas will be on the left. The Yakuin location is about a five-minute walk from Tenjin via Imaizumi.

shopping complexes

Besides the previously mentioned shopping malls at Hawks’ Town and Marinoa, Tenjin itself is basically one big shopping area.

Canal City is smack dab in the middle of Hakata, Nakasu and Tenjin. Take the \100 yen circle bus from Tenjin or Hakata Station, or it’s about a tenminute walk from either location. This shopping center is the biggest in Fukuoka-shi and has a huge array of clothing boutiques, a food plaza, a ramen stadium and movie theaters. www.canalcity. co.jp

AEON Mall is a newcomer on the Fukuoka scene and a bit off the beaten track. It has all the amenities of a big time shopping mall including a Warner Brothers Cinema, Jusco and a wide variety of retail shops. Check the website for directions from where you are. http://lucle. diamondcity.co.jp

entertainment

cinemas

Most cinemas in Fukuoka City are in Tenjin and Nakasu, but small, private cinemas dot the city as well. For show times in English, visit www. fukuokanow.com and click on “Cinema Guide.”

AMC Canal City 13 is located in Canal City. It mainly shows current blockbusters either dubbed or subtitled. Tel 092-272-2222.

Cine Libre Hakataeki in the Hakata Bus Center is good for alternatives to Hollywood films. Tel 092- 434-3691.

Cine Salon Praveria in Nishijin is another good bet for more artsy films.

Cineterie Tenjin is the best place for alternative and art-house films from around the world. It’s on Oyafuku-dori, about five blocks toward Nagahama from the Freshness Burger. Tel 092-781-5508.

United Cinemas in Hawks Town Mall is perhaps the plushest theater in the city. It shows mainly first-run films for the typical price, but the roomy stadium seating is nice. \1000 per year gets you a member’s card, which includes a free movie ticket, a free Coke, discounts off the normal price and allows you to collect points that can be converted to additional free tickets over time (one free ticket every five or six movies). www.uci-j.co.jp

karaoke

There are so many karaoke places in Fukuoka City that it’s best to just explore until you find one that you like. You pay by the hour and can usually choose a nomihodai package. Make sure you understand what you’re getting as some places are purposely tricky with their menus.

Big Echo is a convenient place to start your karaoke education and can be found in the middle of Nishi-dori in Tenjin. They offer a point card that can be redeemed for discounts on the room fee. Basic room fee is \315 per hour per person. The nomih?dai menu is \1200 yen per hour per person and includes all drinks on the menu. They update their music selection every six months, and although there’s no English menu, they’re used to dealing with JETs. Open 24 hours.

onsen

Yu no Hana is a popular onsen located in Nagahama, northwest of Tenjin. It features several indoor baths, as well as outdoor communal baths and large wooden barrels which serve as private tubs. There is also a sauna, steam room, foot-bath and a platform covered in reed mats where you can lay down and cool off. The first and second floors alternate daily between men and women. Admission \700, towel \150. Become a member and get a \50 discount each time. Buy tickets at the machine next to the front desk. Mon-Fri 8am- 3am, Sat-Sun 8am-6am. Tel 092-733-1126.

internet cafes

There are a number of places that offer Internet access in the city, as well as use of printers, copiers and scanners. Many require purchasing a membership, usually around \300-400. The hourly rate is about the same. Some, including Cybac and Popeye’s Media Cafe, offer discounts on all-night use, making them an uncomfortable but cheap way to sleep in the city if you miss the last train home.

Cybac is a chain with several locations. On Nishidori across the street from the Apple store, look for the big yellow car hanging off the front of the building. The second location is closer to the clubs, visible from Oyafuko-dori. A third location is in Nishijin. Take exit #1 from Nishijin Subway Station and turn left on Route 263. Turn left again at Best Denki. Cybac is on the left immediately after Topos. Open 24 hours.

Kokusai Hiroba provides many free services to its members including Internet use.

Popeye’s Media Cafe is located in Tenjin on Showa-dori. Open 24 hours.

Round 1 is an amusement center filled with UFO catcher games and purikura, but also offers Internet access. Across the street from the main Iwataya building.

Space Create is open 24 hours with locations in several areas of Fukuoka.

sleeping in the city

Missed the last train home? If an internet cafe doesn’t appeal, try a capsule hotel. They’re bigger than you think.

capsules

Generally segregated by sex, capsules are located in business areas for over-worked (or drunk) businessmen who miss the last train. They often offer amenities such as bath facilities, snazzy pajamas and TV lounges. There are many in Tenjin, Oyafuko-dori, Nakasu and Hakata.

Capsule Wellbe Fukuoka Located between Hakata and Nakasu, this men-only hotel costs \3000-4000 a night. Tel 092-291-1009. www.wellbe.co.jp/wellbe/ fukuoka_a.html

Hotel Cabinas Fukuoka  Rooms run \3000-4000 per night. Men only. Next to Hakata Station; exit from Hakata-guchi and turn right. Look for the red ????sign up high on the left. www7.ocn.ne.jp/~cabinas/

Love Hotels

If you’ve just met your soul mate in The Happy Cock, maybe a love hotel is your best option for the night. These quintessentially Japanese conveniences (over 300 years old) are scattered throughout Fukuoka City but concentrated along Nakasu River, in Tenjin south of Mitsukoshi and near the airport. Rates for love hotels are hourly (rest) or by the night (stay).

Acqua Myu is on the west side of the city in Odo. Its coolest rooms have an entire bar adjacent to the bed so you can move the party from cocktails to the main course in about two steps. Rest from \2500, stay from \5000. Tel 092-883-0045. www. opmcorp.co.jp/acqua.htm

Hotel Ritmo doesn’t have themed decor, but the huge bathrooms (some with full-sized Jacuzzis) and in-room slot machines make this an interesting choice. Look for the large glowing sign on the northeast corner of Imaizumi Park; take the road going west (right if you’re coming from Tenjin) at the southernmost end of Bic Camera. The cheapest room is \2940/70 minutes and the most expensive is \10 400 for the night.

Royal Cas VI Hotel has a Greek/Safari-themed entry and outdoor baths. Everything is computerized to ensure privacy, so you’ll need to know some kanji. Choose the room number to view amenities (not all rooms have DVD players).  Take your ticket, go to your room and don’t worry about a thing until you check out.  Half-way down Imaizumi Parkon the left side. Rates are similar to Hotel Ritmo.